Friday, May 25, 2018

Free Pattern Friday! 05-25-2018

Surprise, surprise!  This week's free pattern isn't a tracing, it's a translation!  Take a gander below for my Google assisted translation of one of the projects from the Schoeller Wolle/Esslinger Wolle pamphlets.  Also pictured is a scan of the original instructions in German.  Any German readers, please let me know if I got anything wrong!

Schoeller Wolle/Esslinger Wolle Pamphlet – #2231 Cross Knitted Bolero – Translated from original German

Size: 36/38
Bust of the Model: about 92 cm
Total Length: 43cm

Materials: SCHOELLER Wool “Carmen” 450g Black, ESSLINGER Wool “Gold and Silver” 200g Black, One pair INOX Tric needles size 4.5 and 5mm, and One INOX circular needle size 4mm 120cm long.

Use two strands of “Gold and Silver”

Stockinette Stitch: RS row knit, WS row purl
Stripe Sequence in St. St.: *5.5cm (about 12 rows) in “Carmen” using 5mm needle, 6 rows in “Gold and Silver” using 4.5mm needle* Repeat between *'s

Swatch test and change needles as necessary!
Gauge: 14sts by 30 rows = 10cm

Work: Using two strands of “Gold and Silver” cast on 48 sts with a 4.5 mm needle and work in K1, P1 for 2 cm. Begin stripe sequence.

Switch to “Carmen”, increase one stitch on each end of the 4th, 6th, and 8th rows, after 12 rows in “Carmen” switch to “Gold and Silver”. In the first row with “Gold and Silver” decrease 14 sts, distributed evenly.

Continue the stripe sequence, increasing and decreasing stitches as follows:
1st Stripe “Carmen”: increase 10 sts,
1st Stripe “Gold and Silver”: decrease 5 sts,
2nd Stripe “Carmen”: increase 10 sts,
2nd Stripe “Gold and Silver”: decrease 5 sts,
3rd Stripe “Carmen”: increase 14 sts,
3rd Stripe “Gold and Silver”: decrease 9 sts,
4th Stripe “Carmen”: inrease 17 sts
4th Stripe “Gold and Silver”: decrease 12 sts,
5th Stripe “Carmen”: inrease 19 sts
5th Stripe “Gold and Silver”: decrease 14 sts,
6th Stripe “Carmen”: inrease 21 sts
6th Stripe “Gold and Silver”: decrease 19 sts,
7th Stripe “Carmen”: inrease 24 sts
7th Stripe “Gold and Silver”: decrease 19 sts,
8th Stripe “Carmen”: inrease 24 sts
8th Stripe “Gold and Silver”: decrease 19 sts,

In the 2nd through 6th stripes in “Carmen” increase 1 on each end in the 4th, 6th, and 8th rows.
In the 7th stripe in “Carmen” increase 1 st on each end of the 4th and 6th rows.

After the 8th “Gold and Silver” stripe divide the work for the neckline and continue to work both parts separately. (57 sts each side):
Still using “Gold and Silver” cast off 1x2 and 1x1 sts at the center. Increase 10 sts distributed evenly, then repeat the cast off again.

The 9th stripe in “Gold in Silver” is the center back!

Finish the piece in “Carmen”; for the neckline on the left side work every other row 8x4 sts decreased. For the rounding at the right side of the piece, on the 3rd row in “Carmen” cast off every other row 2x1, 3x2, and 3x3 sts, then cast off remaining 8 sts.

Work the other half of the bolero as above, reversing neckline shaping.

Close seams. With circular needle and 2 strands of “Gold and Silver” pick up 286 sts along the front, bottom, and neckline edges (lower back edge 78sts, front pieces 172 sts each, back neckline 36 sts). Work in K1, P1 for 2.5 cm, cast off in pattern.

My Notes: Hoo-boy, this one is a doosy...
I am not sure if it is because of how German knitting patterns are written, or because this pattern was crammed onto a small pamphlet, but it's a bit sparse. Specific stitches are not given for increasing or decreasing, and how many stitches to add or subtract and when is at best stated as “increase this many in this row, distributed evenly.”

The bold and exclamations are all straight from the pattern. They were among the easiest things to figure out. This one was a lot tougher to decipher than the Dutch pattern, as there were more abbreviations and no key as to what they meant. Google and some German speaking friends helped me out with words, but they aren't knitters, so I made the best sense of it that I could. Perhaps if I give a try at knitting this pattern I will write it out with a little more detail. There is a lot going on at once in this pattern, and it's not immediately intuitive with the scant instructions.

The bit about the 9th stripe of “Gold and Silver” being the center back especially confused me, as I don't think there is a 9th stripe. You finish each half of the bolero with “Carmen” after the 8th stripe, and then sew the halves together. Maybe they just mean where the 9th stripe would be if there was one? Also, where the neckline begins the pattern clearly says “after the 8th 'Gold and Silver' stripe”, but then also clearly says to do the next bit in 'Gold and Silver'. Is this stripe wider than the others then? Or is it meant to be done before the end of the stripe?

I wrote the pattern above as it is in the pamphlet, but I want to add what I believe is going on in the stripe sequence just based on the diagram given and my own knitting experience. While it seems from the text like there are 9 of each stripe (set up plus 8 more) I think the setup is meant to happen in the first stripe. The diagram only shows 8 stripes. I believe he increases and decreases in each stripe are supposed to happen in the first row of each stripe, and the other increases and decreases (stated at the very start and under 'simultaneously') are additional to those. As I have not knit this yet, I cannot say for sure, but that is my best guess at how to reconcile the text and the diagram.

As for the yarn...surprise, surprise, neither are produced anymore. I looked on the internet and found no trace of “Carmen”, but it appears to be some sort of boucle or other fluffy yarn to make that poofy appearance in stockinette stitch. “Gold and Silver” I was able to find a bit about. It is a rayon/lurex metallic yarn that looks about sock or lace weight. Best advice, find whatever yarn suits your tastes and then find needles to get the right gauge.

Friday, May 18, 2018

Simple Pleasures

It's finally spring in my neck of the woods, and everything has suddenly burst into bloom.  Here's a little tour of the amazing things that sprook up around my house every year.

Wednesday, May 9, 2018

Vintage Craft Book Feature: BH&G Creative Crafts and Stitchery (USA 1976)

Another of my many needlework hobbies is the collection of vintage craft books.  Found in dusty corners of second hand shops, in pride of place in used book stores, these old tomes often contain beautiful nuggets of crafting wisdom, and a heaping helping of vintage charm.  Reviving the techniques, tips and retro projects is just one more way for us to bring back the wonders of the handmade.

Better Homes and Gardens: Creative Crafts and Stitchery - U.S.A. 1976

Much like the previous BH&G book I reviewed (Treasures From Throwaways), this one is packed with delightfully retro projects.  Though there is less of a focus on it, there are many projects in this book that feature natural or reused materials.  for example, it says to cut shapes out of  colored beverage cans for the cool shisha mirrors in the butterfly on the cover.  Painted rocks, driftwood sculptures and more alongside the more traditional knitting and macrame.

The butterfly is pretty cool, but I think these awesomely retro sweaters from the embroidery section deserve a special mention.

I see so many old knit and crochet doilies at thrift stores, and never know what to do with them, but hate to pass them up as they are so pretty.  Well, maybe this is the answer:  stick them on every available surface in a bathroom :P  In all seriousness, this does give me a few ideas: edges of towels, pillow covers, lace window curtains...

Even though I am hopelessly bad at crochet, this triangle shawl is one of my favorite projects in the whole book.

"The a replica of one that a young Swedish bride made for her trousseau when she came to this country 100 years ago.  The adult version is worn by the great-granddaughter of the Swedish girl who crocheted the original wraparound shawl, and the child's version is worn by her great-great-granddaughter"

I love seeing replicas of historical needlework like this.  So many traditional garments only exist now in photos, and no one kept track of how to make them.  Having historical crafts preserved like this is always amazing to find in a modern book.

Maybe someday I'll finally get better at crochet and try to make one of these shawls.

These leaf art cards are another favorite of mine.  I have always been that weirdo who sees faces and scenes in completely mundane objects.  These leaf art cards are proof that someone else in the world has the same weird tendency.

I did make a few of these as Christmas and birthday cards one year.  While everyone said they were neat/pretty/what-have-you, a few definitely looked askance at me and asked what the shape was supposed to be.  I guess it takes a special kind of weird to appreciate them, but I am glad to be in that category.

All of the projects in this book are quite charming if you like the retro style.  They all have great instructions, so even if you just want to use the how-to info for your own crafts, it is a great resource.  It covers a pretty wide range of crafting disciplines, and has a lot of outside-the-box type inspiration to offer.  Case in point; this 'accent rug' that you literally draw on whatever floor you think needs an accent rug, but having a real rug would gum up the door.

Also, macralap is my new favorite crafting term.

Free Pattern Collection

The last few week's worth of tracings all gathered together for your convenience, enjoy!

Monday, April 9, 2018

Vintage Craft Book Feature: Schoeller Wolle and Esslinger Wolle (Germany ~1980's)

Another of my many needlework hobbies is the collection of vintage craft books.  Found in dusty corners of second hand shops, in pride of place in used book stores, these old tomes often contain beautiful nuggets of crafting wisdom, and a heaping helping of vintage charm.  Reviving the techniques, tips and retro projects is just one more way for us to bring back the wonders of the handmade.

Schoeller Wolle and Esslinger Wolle Pamphlets - Germany ~1980's

Well, book is a bit of a misnomer here as this is actually a collection of pattern pamphlets from the yarn companies Schoeller Wolle and Esslinger Wolle.  

I found a total of eight of these pamphlets in a ziplock bag at a thrift store for the hefty sum of 10 cents.  While they are definitely 1980's style with all the awfulness that implies, there were a few (like the one above) that intrigued me enough to splurge on them.  The patterns are all completely in German, but I didn't let that deter me any more than the Dutch knitting book did.

Each pamphlet is a cute little fold out thing; with a picture of a pattern on the front and back (so two patterns per pamphlet) and all the instructions, including diagrams, in two or three pages inside.  The pamphlets aren't very big, 6" by 8" or so.  That small space means the patterns are a bit crushed in with a lot of abbreviations.  No where can I find a list of said terms, but I imagine the internet can help with that.  I may try to google assist translate the above jacket pattern, and if I do I'll share it here.

While the cacti are beyond goofy, the knit pants intrigue me.  I have a feeling that knit in a soft yarn they would be really great lay-around-the-house pants.  That little girl is rocking the single coolest accessory in the whole of the collection.  I am so jealous that my hair would never be able to do that.

I kind of want to translate this coat pattern just to figure out wth is going on with it.  It looks like it's knit sideways with giant short rows and changes of yarn?  Bizarre and terrible looking, but curiosity compels me.

All in all, this collection is mostly just a retro novelty, and I'm glad I didn't spend more than a dime on it.  I wish I could find more info on the yarn companies, but alas a semi-deep internet search has given me nothing.  I like searching up historical data about textile and craft companies, and it bugs me to come up with so much nothing.  

I have a feeling that none of the yarns called for exist any more, and finding substitutes without knowing anything about the originals will be difficult.  Between that and the seemingly extra-abbreviated patterns in a language I cannot read, recreating any of these may be quite the challenge.

On the other hand, I do like puzzles.

Wednesday, April 4, 2018

Uncovering Treasures - Part 2

As promised, here is part two of the continuing saga of the sewing treasure chest:

There were a few things that popped out of the box as interesting just historically.  When was the last time you saw a package of needles with gold leaf on bot the needles and the paper package?  Or how about the small rings used for curtains and dorset buttons made from "genuine bone" and priced at 10 cents?

Not sure what I'll actually do with either of these, but they are kinda fun to keep as interesting history tidbits.   


I mentioned the Belding & xx silk threads in the last post, here are all of them together.  I was really happy to pull out that Belding & Corticelli case, and even happier when I opened it to find little sampler spools of silk.  The buttonhole twist was another delightful find.  It's a very fun thread to stitch with, and kinda hard to find.

There was also a LOT of darning thread in every shade imaginable.  Somebody clearly planned on fixing a LOT of stockings.  Many of the spools seemed unused, so who knows how much darning ever actually got done though.

The real stars of this tale I have left for last;  the two tomato pincushions.

I already have a number of pincushions I use on a regular basis, and so I didn't need two more.  As a bit of an archaeological exercise, I decided to cut them open and see what pins and needles (if any) may have gotten lost within.  One one of the tomatoes I could see just the tips of a few needle eyes sticking out, so I thought maybe a few had gotten all the way in.

Here is the pair before I did any cutting or removal.  Each has a handful of pins, and you can see the needle eyes on the far one.  Not expecting to find much, I started with the near one.

I was really proud of myself for remembering to put something down under the pile of sawdust before dumping it.  I was less proud when it took me a few minutes of sifting before thinking to use a magnet to find the needles in said pile.  When all were extracted the total was 14 pins and 17 needles, more than I really expected.  As I moved on to the next tomato I thought, well maybe this one has a few more, since I can see a couple poking out.  I was still guessing in the realm of 20 or so needles.

This is what I saw when I cut open the second tomato.

WAY more than 20 needles.

I am at a bit of a loss as to how a person could lose SO MANY needles into a pincushion.  It's a little hard to see, but one of the ones sticking up is so large it is almost a yarn needle.  

Maybe they were all still sticking out and visible, and then the tomato got tossed in a box and all the needles got pushed in in the resulting jumble??

Also, whoever this box belonged to, they had a fondness for gold eye needles.  Besides the packet above, almost all the needles I retrieved from the tomatoes had gold eyes.  Was it just what was available?  or an actual preference?

So, how does one extract so much pointy metal from a pile of sawdust?  With a powerful magnet!  Unfortunate side effects may include flinging sawdust everywhere when the needles snap to the magnet, and having a giant pile of magnetized needles that are nigh impossible to separate...  

Well, I call it about a halfway good idea...

The final count was 16 pins and 124 needles from the second tomato.  Well, 123 and two halves.  There were two broken pointy halves that came tumbling out, but no matching eyes.  My mother called dibs on the yarn needle.  

Monday, April 2, 2018

Treasure Trove - Part 1

I have a bit of a thing for old sewing boxes.  I have found a few in antique and thrift stores that have neat folding out sections, and I think they are just the best for organizing threads.  But what really draws me in when I see an innocuous sewing basket sitting in a store is the possibility of what could be inside.  At least three times in the last year I have bought a vintage sewing box, not because I wanted the box itself, but because of the delicious filling inside.

The latest box wasn't even hiding it's goodies, it was sitting open and the price tag proudly proclaimed that all within was included.

As sewing boxes go, it's a pretty dull one.  Also with no dividers or anything for organization, the jumble of threads and notions was just dumped together in the cavernous space.  It was hard to tell at first glace if there was anything worth the price inside, but a few treasures peaked out of the mess and beckoned to me.

I must admit, I felt a bit like a character from one of my favorite old RPGs opening a treasure chest and hoping the random drop would be something good.

I was not disappointed :)

 After an hour or so of sorting and rewinding errant spools, I finally had the whole trove laid out.  Thoughts of dragons poring over their hoards went through my head as I began the difficult task of deciding how much of any of this I really needed.

Spools of thread are always good to keep, you never know when you might need just that one specific color.  Most of the embroidery floss I gave away, all of it was from old companies that no longer make floss, and thus would be very hard to match to modern colors.

I did have a lot of fun going through the spools, as there was a wide spread of ages and manufacturers.  I tried to line up a timeline of sorts based just on the labels and company names.

Most were Coats, Clarks, or some combination thereof, but there was also a handful of nice silk thread all bearing the name Belding with various & 'so and so' afterwards.  Interesting not only because I really like silk thread, but also because I live less than 20 miles from the town of Belding where it was produced back in the day.

The heaps of bias tape and lace were definitely on my keep list.  I don't think I've had to buy bias tape new for at least a year or two, just because there always seems to be some in the sewing boxes I buy.  I am also the proud owner of three wooden darning eggs for the same reason.  Also among the treasures in this box was a nice tracing wheel, the one tool I hadn't managed to come across yet.

The tomato pincushions and more specialty items deserve their own post, so stay tuned for part 2.

The buttons I definitely kept.  I think I have some sort of compulsive button hoarding disorder.  I do use them in things, but it often seems as if more come into my sewing room than ever leave.